Relax Day
Bella put on some background calming noises to help us sleep and drown out the rooster crowing. She turned that off around 7am but we were still dozing. Then I heard what sounded like a motor in the background. Rebecca said, “I think there’s a bug in the window” and I replied “I think that’s someone mowing the lawn” so she got up and looked and then screamed when she saw a big beetle buzzing at our window screen. I jolted up and Bella was hiding behind her pillow. It flew away but strong start to the day.
Relaxing in the country. Lolllll.
Due to drinking a lot the night before, it was a late start to the day. Around 11am we had some bread and leftovers for breakfast, and then moved ourselves to down by the water.
We read and napped on and off until about 3 when Rebecca made us a little charcuterie snack plate.
We spent some more time relaxing, I kept trying to nap but my leg would fall asleep or get uncomfortable. I was balancing my chair on a rock as far out in the water as possible.
Finally we decided to shower and get dressed (totally sunburned from laying out for hours) and go into town for a snack, and then to the restaurant across the water, Konoba Mandrac, for dinner. We had been curious about the area across the water, but not brave enough to attempt to kayak across when the water is cold and filled with sea grass.
We biked to Ston, stopped for a glass of iced tea (read: too hungover to start drinking again), and then decided it was time to get to the restaurant.
The restaurant is directly across from where we are staying so basically we had to bike 10 minutes to Ston and then another 10 minutes down a very pretty road. A small part of the road is water on both sides, like a bridge but not elevated. As we passed here was went through a small port where big catamarans were parked and there was a small sea side bar. If we had known about this place, we should have been hanging here to be able to go on a boat.
We arrived at the restaurant a bit later then we wanted to, because we wanted to be done and biking before the sun set as not to have to bike home in the dark.
There was no one dining at Konoba Mandrac except us, and everyone jumped up to accommodate us. The Indian co owner laughed and knew we were the girls from across the water. He said he could hear us screaming at the bugs.
Ston is known for oysters so we started with those. Rebecca doesn’t eat shellfish so Bella and I had 3 each. These oysters were so meaty. Like so big. I squeezed lemon on top and we barely got through. I’m a saucy gal, I like the mignonette, the cocktail sauce, but just lemon and a thick oyster? Nah. I think I swallowed the last one whole just to be done with it.
They had fresh fish so the lady took us to the display and asked which fish we wanted. We immediately pointed to the sea bream. She then picks up this eel looking fish with a big beak and says “oh this is a Croatian local fish, we just catch today. You should try this we give one each 20€ each”. The horrified look on all of our faces should have been enough for her to read the room. But instead of giving in, she doubled down. She brought another guy over and makes him tell us how fresh it is.
Then she opens its long skinny body and shows us the inside how it’s all meat and I think we all stepped back with horror. Now we had three people telling us how fresh and good it is but we insisted on the sea bream.
Google: needlefish for a picture of the freaky fish we would not eat.
Picture above is our house across the water. No pictures of the fish unfortunately. We were eager to eat and leave due to the impending darkness.
The credit card machine wasn’t working so it took us a while to leave and the sun was certainly setting. There was still some light but it was after 9pm.
We tried to pedal home as fast as possible. Luckily the bikes have lights. But remember that stretch of road that was water on both sides? Well, for two minutes we pedaled through bugs to the face. We could barely scream for fear of bugs in the mouth. Horrifying.
When we made it home, we decided to bring our wine upstairs and play cards and drink in bed. The attic apartment reminds me of “a little princess”.
Fun card games and a somewhat early night to end our mostly relaxing day.