Casa Comidas Irene

While researching for Rioja, I stumbled upon a NY Times article that documented five of the best family run restaurants in the Rioja area. I tried to get reservations at two different places but since it is off season, not everything is open, especially during the week. I was happy to have gotten in touch via email (with help from my Spanish speaking work colleagues) and made a reservation at Casa Irene for lunch on the day we land (Wednesday afternoon).

The restaurant is one hour south of where we were staying and 3 hours north of Madrid where we landed. The flight was easy and uneventful thankfully. We landed just on time, got out of the airport quickly and the most amazing part, picked up the rental car with no trouble. We touched down around 9am and were on the road with two coffees before 10am.

It was a peaceful ride out of the city area for the first hour, through the countryside for the second hour, and then the third hour started all mountainous roads with beautiful views but thank goodness there were no cars coming the other direction because I would have had to close my eyes.

We stopped to take that first picture and almost got stuck in the middle of the road as our manual car did not make it clear how to reverse. The car was literally stopped in the middle of the road and Phil had to put the car in neutral and push it back so we could continue driving. Shortly after it was discovered that you have to push the stick shift down to reverse.

Casa Comidas Irene was so out of the way that I was beginning to wonder if it even existed. We drove through deserted mountain towns and truly still have no idea where all the people are? But it was well kept and beautiful stone buildings all around the countryside with many cows and sheep and horses.

We finally made it! Nearly walked into the kitchen because the front of the restaurant was not clear. We got there around 1:15 and were the first table for lunch in this tiny 20 seat restaurant. There is no menu, just the server telling you what dishes they offer for a 3 course €25 pre set menu. I think we sort of ordered that but also added on because we were hungry and feeling fancy after the 3 hour drive.

First, a local Garnacha from a small family owned vineyard with old vines that are picked by hand…the most expensive wine on their list! (€45) :)

Next she told us there is some sort of celebration/festival of red beans because they are harvested this time of year so we had to try the red bean stew with chorizo. So good, so much beans, can’t wait to find out the results of that delicious choice.

Course 2: Grilled artichokes drizzled with a red wine reduction and olive oil and salt. So simple but the taste of the fresh local olive oil made all the difference.

The other dish was spectacular, some sort of smoky potato puree that was the consistency of polenta topped with chorizo and a fried egg.

The bread on the table was so airy and light, I’m sure I could have stopped eating after this course but no way, more food on the way.

The top plate: meatballs (pork I believe) in a sweet and savory sauce that had a bit of an apricot taste to it. The bottom plate: pork cheeks, which was good but the only let down of the meal…we only ate two of the four medallions. The server asked if we wanted to take them and when we said no she said “the dogs will be very happy then”. 😆

Totally stuffed but I love dessert! Delicious coffee which I assumed would be espresso and was happy that it wasn’t. Top is a lemon mousse which I could eat every night to cleanse my palate and bottom is a French toast type of bread. Both amazing. We were so full I needed to walk and digest.

They gave a little parting gift of soap made from the left over olive oil that’s recycled from the restaurant. Super cute idea!

We wandered the empty streets of this town “Viniegra de Abajo”, walked down by the babbling brook there, said hi to some goats, and then headed back for a siesta at our Rioja apartment. One of the buildings was a public wash room which was super cool. Unsure who uses it since there were no people anywhere.

On the drive to Rioja we encountered cows literally in the road wandering around and rolled down the windows to say hi.

Writing this has made me hungry again so time to eat another meal and will be back tomorrow :)